Sunday, August 30, 2009

Pictures!!!


Little Ditty +me: aka three very confused white kids in India

The Golden Temple looking beautiful at sunset


Another shot of the Golden Temple

Diane and I at a mosque in Delhi. They claimed they make you wear the dress to cover scandalous skin. We think its for them to further make fun of western tourists. Luckily we pulled the look off well.

This man asked us to take his picture in front of the temple. I just loved his stance so much I had to put it up here.

RaRaRa-Rajasthan!

Note to self: when considering future career options despite being only one letter off IGO is very different from NGO. While the good people of the NGO world are all heart with little reward, when you turn that non-governmental into an inter-governmental you get a little more money thrown your way and thus employees get sweet perks. While I of course am still at my usual NGOness I did manage to tag along with a friend who works for one such IGO this weekend on a trip to Jaipur, the capital city of the state of Rajasthan. First of all, I should point out that this friend wasn’t even a friend at all until a few weeks ago. She is a fellow Blue Devil (woot woot), Davis High School class of ’99 and despite the fact that she grew up a few blocks away from me in Davis I had never met her until a mutual friend put us in contact with each other a few weeks ago. She is now working in Nepal but comes to Delhi for work occasionally and most importantly brings her per diem with her. Whew, is it the life! We rode in a car, with air conditioning and windows and everything, and even stayed in a place that takes the "s" out of hostel! It had a breakfast buffet! Boy did my little NGO heart ever go crazy at the sight of all that "free" food!

Although the hotel was in itself a sight to see - an old palace converted into a hotel by someone with amazing taste in interior decoration - the city was also really cool. It is known as the pink city because the stone that it is built out of is all a pinkish salmon color. It kind of felt like being in its a small world without the creepy singing children jerking awkwardly back and forth.

I visited a fort/palace in the morning, built circa 1600 for the Maharaja who ruled over Rajasthan. Upon approaching the fort (which my friend had already been to several times and thus left me by my lonsesome to navigate) I noticed the path up to the entrance looked miserably long and steep. Not to worry! This is after all India and thus there was a steady stream of elephants marching people up the hill. Overall assessment of my first use of elephant as a mode of transport: far slower than expected and bumpier than a road full of pot holes and still one sweet ass way to travel. The coolest part about the fort was that I got there before it opened and yet was still let in (questionable) and so I was wandering through all these creepy corridors totally by myself. I’d like to say I was not at all creeped out but to be honest at any moment I expect a group of angry warlords to come around the corner and attack me. I also went to the city palace, which is where all the recent rulers of the state live, including the current royal family – not to worry I didn’t realize each Indian state had a royal family either. The best part, which I attempted to capture in some photos that failed were these four sets of doors called the four seasons, which are each decorated for a different season. I am going to try to put my pictures on here – both of Jaipur and the Golden Temple so those of you with way too much time on your hands should check them out!

Friday, August 21, 2009

Oh so that's the monsoon thing they were talking about

Wow. So the monsoon arrived with a flourish today. I can’t even describe the downpour. Even though this happens every year in Delhi, the drainage is so bad in the city that all the streets had about a foot of standing water. I of course managed to be out shopping when the rain started so I ended up chilling in a shoe shop for about an hour while the heavens let loose. On the plus side I met an Indian woman who has been living in San Francisco for the last few years and even managed to get a ride home from her once the rain ended. Unfortunately Delhi’s already bad traffic situation only got worse once the streets flooded. This was compounded by the fact that the power was out all over the city so none of the lights were working and people decided to try to speed things up by driving on the wrong side of the road. So you would literally have intersections where people were entering from all directions on both sides of the road, cows were wandering across the street, bikers were stuck in foot-deep water, and general chaos reigned. It was interesting to say the least.

Otherwise I’ve gotten pretty settled in here and am mostly focusing on work. Health care in India is definitely different from the U.S. First, there is no insurance and you just pay the doctor in cash. A visit at a nice hospital can be quite expensive, but other doctors cost anywhere from 1 to 2 dollars. Also, people here have no desire to know why they are sick or what is wrong with them. They just go to the doctor to get medicine. They don’t even ask what the pills are the doctor is giving them, they just take them. When we ask people what makes someone a good doctor, they don’t seem to care if he asks them a lot of questions or does an exam, all that matters is that he gives them medication. The most common meds by far are antibiotics, which are distributed for just about every ailment. Unfortunately, each patient is only given one to two pills, so in fact all it does is build more resistant diseases. Sorry for the boring lesson, in more important and life-altering news I found a bar with an awesome happy hour last night…

Saturday, August 8, 2009

Delhi's soundtrack

In order to celebrate our first month in India, and more importantly due to suffering insanity at the hands of Stata (if you don’t know what that is pat yourself on the back, you have some hope of not being a huge nerd), Jack and I went out for celebratory drinks at our neighborhood bar last night. First of all it’s called Tonic, which was also the name of the closest bar to the Federal Reserve, so it had a special place in my heart before we even stepped in. Of course then it just got better. First of all it is going for this cool modern lounge vibe with crazy lighting and candles everywhere. But what really made my night was the music. We started with a DJ playing techno remixes of some serious classics – Ace of Base, MJ (of course), Madonna, Bon Jovi – it was like a dance party on steroids. But, later in the night the real show got going…This guy comes out with a huge electronic keyboard and proceeds to sing the most eclectic group of songs and turn Tonic into a scene from The Wedding Singer. He played Disney theme songs, crappy wedding songs, Louis Armstrong’s What a Wonderful World, Hotel California, John Denver, classic oldies, George Strait, it was pretty much amazing. I will definitely be returning to Tonic in the hopes of seeing Keyboard Man again.

I feel that after a month here I really do need to take a moment to describe the joy that is riding in an auto rickshaw in Delhi. As far as I can tell, all driving laws here are optional guidelines that you can follow as long as they don’t slow you down. If there’s traffic on your side of the road, you just go on the other side to speed things up. Red lights that aren’t at a large intersection mean nothing and you don’t even slow down as you blow through them. And, when you make a left hand turn (they drive like the British on the left, btw) you don’t even bother to glance over your shoulder and see if there are any cars you’re about to cut off, you just figure they’ll get out of your way. It really reminds me of those go-carts they have at mini golf courses – you just drive wherever you feel like and try to get ahead of as many people as possible.

The downside to the mayhem is the honking. If they ever make a “sounds of Delhi” CD it will definitely just be constant honking. After a month of careful study and observation I have determined that there is a method to it – and here is a list of situations in which a driver must use the horn:

  1. When you’re passing someone
  2. When you’re driving next to someone
  3. When you drive by a pedestrian
  4. When you think the car in front of you is not being aggressive enough
  5. When you breathe in
  6. When you breathe out
To make matters worse, because everyone is using their horns so much people go out of their way to buy particularly obnoxious sounding ones so that they stand out above the crowd. I am already formulating an ambitious plan – and Justin and P$ if you’re reading this I need your help because you guys are the best at April Fools. Next April Fools day I am going to figure out a way to disengage every horn in Delhi and watch as drivers realize that in fact the world doesn’t stop turning if you aren’t laying on the horn.